Adulting is hard, especially when it concerns our skin. In fact, it may come as a shock to some that our breakouts tend to increase with age. As depressing as that info is, it’s not surprising—considering how stressful the entire world is right now, compounded with a few other factors like side effects to medication and undiagnosed medical conditions. Even if you didn’t suffer from acne as a teen (lucky you!), you still can experience it as an adult.
Ahead, Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, board-certified NYC dermatologist and clinical attending at NYU Langone and Mount Sinai Hospital, breaks down the science behind this shift and how to treat it post-adolescence.
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So, why the breakouts?
Changing hormonal levels. Certain hormones, particularly testosterone, trigger increase oil production promoting acne. The surge in those hormones could be from your period, pre-menopause, menopause, starting or stopping the pill, hormonal IUD (intrauterine devices), or eating hormone-enhanced foods (i.e. non-organic meat and dairy). “Women are more likely to deal with adult acne than men due to hormonal changes,” Levin says.
Stress. Turn on the news for two seconds and you’ll understand why. “Unfortunately chronic stress elevates not only cortisol levels but also androgens. Stimulating androgen production causes an increase in sebum which clogs pores and increases the overgrowth of a bacteria called P. Acnes,” Levin says. It then leads to inflammation underneath the skin or cystic acne,” Levin explains. In a recent study conducted by Differin, 90% of those surveyed reported they have experienced a breakout while stressed.
Over-cleansing and over scrubbing. Too much roughness on skin can result in dryness and irritation. And unfortunately, aging skin is also drier (in part due to the cumulative effects of sun/UV exposure).
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The Difference Between Adult and Teenage Acne
“Teens tend to break out primarily on their face, chest, and back due to to the surge in hormones called androgens, which occurs during puberty,” says Levin. Adult acne is much more complicated because of the different hormones and other lifestyle factors involved. As an adult, there’s also a chance that your acne will overlap with other skin conditions like rosacea.
How should you treat it?
Levin explains that the surge in derms treating adult acne may very well be the shift in treatment options. “For many years, those with adult acne would often deal with their acne with over the counter remedies but now, as dermatologists, we are able to offer many more treatment options, combined with in-office procedures to successfully treat and maintain those with adult acne.” Some of Levin’s in-office treatment options are blue and red LED light therapy, which uses anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory lights. Radiofrequency microneedling to deliver heat energy down to the pores in order to essentially heat and ablate the oil glands to destroy oil production. And Corticosteroid injections to help decrease inflammation to reduce the size and pain for inflamed pimples or cysts.
There are still plenty of highly effective over the counter treatment options too. Of course it depends on how severe or mild you acne is, so check with your derm first. If you prefer to treat with an OTC, one of these options may get you in the clear pretty quickly.
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